Sunday, August 31, 2014

Into Holes

I get the impression
you think
it is peculiar to fall into holes.
falling into
Obruni traps for laughter
Obruni money exchanged for barter
Obruni vision clouded by
Romance along red clay roads as the
cracked skin on my heels
kiss
cracked red trails that take me 
to Okponglo where you can’t touch

without being touched.

Inhale slowly to get high off reality
Drunken sobriety when faced with naivety.
End the night with medaase
I lie beneath you
weighed down by a belly full of plantains and pineapple.
Call ChaleChale. They smile at you because they get
the impression
you think it is peculiar to fall into holes.

Pick me up to tell me-
Education is Europeanization
Pick me up to tempt me-
You can buy it but it’s still not yours
Pick me up to ask me-
Where are you from? Again and again, hene hene hene, until
I finally tell you want you want to hear.

Fixed into light skin, never dark enough until
6:30 pm sunset.
Me pa wo kyew still not enough, so
Cover your thighs with kente cloth but never walk alone, else you might
fall into another hole.

Thursday, August 28, 2014

End Quote

Some wise words picked up during the first week of classes...

Don't let anyone tell you that you don't have a tomorrow.
Bad dancing does no harm to Mother Earth.
A rich man is a generous man.
I want to teach Africans to be themselves.
Why have you stopped smiling?

Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Therapy at the Rijks

Today marks exactly 4 weeks since I got on a plane to leave Los Angeles! I don’t even understand how time is going by so fast, and it makes me anxious. I feel like there is so much left to do in such little time. If an entire month can go by this quickly, the next four months seem like nothing. Regardless, a lot has happened so far, and it all started off with a short trip in Europe with Tara. It's weird to look back our stay in Europe after being in Ghana for about a couple weeks. Feels as if I was never even there. I think it's because we were constantly on the move while in Europe, always moving from one place to the next from Amsterdam to Belgium, Bruges, and finally Paris. We never got to settle into any one place and just kept floating through these cities, which wasn’t necessarily a bad thing. Although I wish we had more time to really get acquainted with these places, we still found happiness in meeting other travelers and in spontaneous nights out. My happiest moment in Europe was actually the very first day of the trip.

Our first stop was the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. When we entered the museum, I was confused by these large yellow posters that looked like post-its and couldn’t understand what they were for until we came across this one in the grand hall.

British writers and philosophers Alain de Botton and John Armstrong had installed a project last April to show the therapeutic effect art can have and the answers art can provide for big life questions. These captioned posters sometimes shared anecdotes, suggested solutions to problems, or just gave a few words of wisdom. The Rijksmuseum website says: "The exhibition Art is Therapy, however, wants to questions what the purpose of art is and highlight the threrapeutic effect that art has on visitors who simply look at art and enjoy. As far as the British philosophers are concerned, the focus should be less on where an object comes from and who made it, and more on what it can do for the museum visitor in terms of issues that concern us all: love & relationships, work, status, memory, and mortality."

With any museum I go to, I always feel somehow recalibrated afterwards. Now, I think I can understand the reason why. Looking at paintings and sculptures from centuries past teaches a lot about history, but I find myself having to search for the things that are relevant to myself in the works so that I can relate to something so far off from my own life. I guess what I’m trying to say is that I enjoy looking at art because it makes me unconsciously look for myself in the art, so I leave a museum feeling rebalanced. The Rijksmuseum had already done that for me, and it made such a huge difference. I was able to appreciate the art on a whole new level.


The ‘Art is Therapy’ project resonated with me so much because I'm always expected to justify studying dance both academically and artistically. I’ve learned to always expect questions like: ‘What can you even do with a dance degree?’ ‘What do you learn about in an academic dance class?’ One time I was asked, ‘Why do you go to Swarthmore if you want to dance?’ Even in articles and journals I read for class, scholars will often start off by explaining why dance as an academic field is important, or why their particular area of research should be taken seriously. I usually don’t even know how to answer the questions people ask me, and most of the times I don’t want to answer them anyway because I feel like when I answer, I am consenting to the undertones of those questions- that dance is less legitimate than any other major.
These frustrations were even more intensified when I started to tell people that I was planning on traveling to Ghana to study African dance. This time, questions and comments went something like: ‘But don’t you want to go to Europe instead?’ ‘Study African dance? People do that?’ ‘Does Ghana even have good schools?’ It got really hard not to let this get to my head after a while, and I started to get really nervous before flying out of the US.

These posters at the Rijks helped put my worries to rest. After two years of second guessing myself while at Swarthmore, I was reminded exactly why I still wanted to dance and why I decided to come to Ghana in the first place. The posters explained ways in which art commented on politics, sex, money, memory, and more. They pointed out that art is a part of political science, philosophy, economics, history, math, literature, science, etc, and most importantly that art is part of the human condition. I left the museum feeling reassured that I was doing the right thing. It was a great way to start off my abroad experience, and for the rest of our time in Europe, I kept seeing ways in which museums, monuments, and cathedrals were all therapeutic in their own ways.





Here are some more happy things you should look for if you are ever in these places:

Amsterdam: The canals are stunning, and you can see so much of the city by water. Tara and I did a cruise as the sun was setting.














Belgium: Definitely hit up Delirium Café. This pub has over 2,000 types of beer. Our favorite was definitely the cactus beer. The pub right across the street had some amazing musicians playing live music.


Bruges: All of the chocolate shops in this town sell these. Some get pretty detailed. 


















Paris: Visit the Saint Chapelle to see some of the most beautiful stained glass windows, and then have a pork belly burger at a restaurant called the Loup- my favorite meal while in Europe. For dessert, macaroons from Laduree are all the hype, but I personally enjoyed the ones from Pierre Herme more.

Sunday, August 17, 2014

Mapping Happiness

I go. I come. Welcome.

Welcome to The Geography of Bliss! My blog takes its title after one of my favorite books, The Geography of Bliss: One Grump's Search for the Happiest Place in the World, a travel memoir by Eric Weiner. In each place he visits, Weiner seeks out a formula to happiness and explains what we can learn from the different paths to contentment people choose to take. Here's an excerpt of the description on Eric Weiner's page:

Is this a travel book? Yes, but not a typical one. While I do log thousands of miles in researching the book, The Geography of Bliss is really a travelogue of ideas. I roam the world in search of answers to the pressing questions of our time: What are the essential ingredients for the good life? Why are some places happier than others? How are we shaped by our surroundings? Why can’t airlines serve a decent meal?
Is this a self-help book? Perhaps, but not like any you’ve read before. I offer no simple bromides here. No chicken soup. You will find no easy answers in these pages. You will, however, find much to chew on and, perhaps, some unexpected inspiration. We Americans, it turns out, have no monopoly on the pursuit of happiness. There is wisdom to be found in the least likely of places.
Place. That is what The Geography of Bliss is about. How place—in every aspect of the word—shapes us, defines us. Change your place, I believe, and you can change your life.

A friend recommended this book to me maybe five years ago, and I wish I had time to read it again before I left for my semester abroad. I'm now finding the book relevant in my life again but not for the same reasons. The first time I read The Geography of Bliss, I was so ready to leave my little suburb and ached to stretch my arms out until my hands could grab onto the happiness that Weiner was telling me was out there. I couldn't wait to sample the many tastes of bliss from around the world he described, to refresh my taste buds that had turned dull from years of passing by the same old neutral-colored houses and trimmed trees that lined the neatly paved roads of my hometown. I wanted to grow and expand in a place that would constantly feed my heart with new sights and sounds. Now, I think my six month journey away from home might have just the opposite purpose. I'm starting to feel myself searching inward rather than out. Now, I think back to this quote from Weiner's book:

'The word "utopia" has two meanings. It means both "good place" and "nowhere". That's the way it should be. The happiest places, I think, are the ones that reside just this side of paradise. The perfect person would be insufferable to live with; likewise, we wouldn't want to live in the perfect place, either. "A life time of happiness! No man could bear it: It would be hell on earth," wrote George Bernard Shaw, in his play Man and Superman.'

If there was anything good that came out of the nightmare that was Sophomore Slump, it was the lesson that thinking about happiness makes us less happy. We think that the perfect transcript, the perfect resume, and the perfect career will build us this utopia of a future to the point that we let ourselves delay happiness under this pressure to attain perfection. We are obsessed with a perfection that will somehow provide us with happiness later. Meanwhile, we let go of right now. Every moment is right now, and every moment is an opportunity for happiness.

While I initially chose to study in Ghana to push myself outside of my comfort zone, it's actually been a really comforting experience so far. I really do think it's because this place has created room for imperfection. We get upset over things because we want perfection. Who would have thought that cold showers, lizards in my dorm room, and cramped tro-tro buses would put me at ease? These imperfections and lack of basic comforts, like clean running water and fast Wi-Fi, have led me to put my expectations aside. I don't find myself going about my day with this looming need to get ahead. I don't think about happiness. I'm finding it in everything as I go along. I'm here to make new friends, see new places, and learn about things I genuinely have an interest in. Why is it that we don't allow ourselves to prioritize such obviously important things? We ignore fundamental things that make us happy because we think that there is some bigger, greater happiness out there. I don't think there is, and I hope that living in Ghana will help teach me to let go of this greed for perfection.

You might think it's easier said than done, putting happiness before responsibilities and obligations. You might be right, but I'm honestly tired of happiness being turned into some naive cliche. Meaningful lives can be happy ones too. With that, I want this blog to be a place where I share moments of happiness that I encounter during this trip. I hope that you can be part of this experience in which I rediscover pieces of happiness already inside of me, and I wish to return home having changed from inside out.

To wrap up, I'll relay a little info I picked up this last week. Akwaaba is the word for 'welcome' in the language of Twi. The word is the combination of two phrases. The first is a ko, or 'I go'. The second is a ba, or 'I come'. A ko a ba turns into akwaaba. Although I've gone, left home, I've come to Ghana, and they tell me welcome.

I go. I come. Welcome.